The Conquest of Azumayama II

Japanese

Monday, February 14, 2005, 5:15am. At last the long-awaited rendezvous with destiny had finally come...the day that Azumayama, high in the mountains of Gunma ken, would again be challenged by John and his friend and faithful Sherpa guide, Gokan-san, known locally as "Gokan, the Magnificent"! Gokan-san, as you may remember, wears a size 7 3/8 hat, eats a LOT of fish, and moves in mysterious ways his wonders to perform.

We are at about the K in "Yokohama"

John and Hiromi at home	The Happy Pachinko Monkey - Fujisawa

Down town Fujisawa	Shinto Torii Yokohama	Nice train - but not the one I took
Quickly surveilling the weather, as well as re-checking the back-pack, I slipped into the crisp Japanese morning, dashing to the nearby pick-up point for the 6:14 bus, thence to the Express train to Yoyogi-Uehara and onward to Kita-Senju, both in Tokyo. It was in Kita-Senju that I caught the Limited Express train to the sleepy mountain village of Kiryu, deep in the prefecture of Gunma, north of Tokyo.
Kiryu's Cultural Center	John and Gokan-san	Hiromi's Father, Azumayama in background
I arrived in Kiryu at about 10:30am. Surrounded by the volcanic Japanese mountains, Kiryu is famous for silk kimonos and is a stop on the famous "Silk Road??. Now a manufacturer of auto parts and accessories as well as a hub of manufacturing for the pachinko gambling industry, Kiryu has a long and, sad to say, lackluster history. It is, however, the home of the Kiryu English club which has held forth since the early 1940's. Gokan-san is a recent president and stalwart of the club. It was here that our paths first crossed and we discovered our commonality of fate: the same birthday, February 17th.
John has narrow escape from big fall	Hiromi still fits her 30-year-old kimono	The way down Azumayama
Kiryu has a new program wherein visitors such as myself are provided free transportation in the form of loaner bicycles, sporting large signs that proclaim that the rider is using a free bicycle, provided courtesy of the fine City of Kiryu. The embarrassment of carrying around the big sign is offset by the thought of all the money I would save! I availed myself of this new service, and headed for the local ofuro, or public bathhouse to complete my morning ablutions.
Hiromi and Yoko with Pastor Ito	A Shinto god upset about lack of tithing	Azumayama is not easy!
After the bath and a hurried lunch of curry-rice, I explored the town for a while, advertising the courteous bicycle lending service, arriving at Gokan's office at 2:30pm. With great trepidation we reviewed our bold plan to assault the summit of the fabled peak, then sallied forth to the jumping-off point. This was it, there was no turning back, and we began the ascent.
Drink machines, cold or hot	Gokan takes a call	Shin-Kiryu station Limited Express train
Each step up the jagged rock-strewn trail was like a stab of pain, but we bravely pressed on to the top, arriving at the apex just before dusk. What a magnificent view and sense of accomplishment! We had done it! Azumayama is now just another mountain, waiting for the tourists to queue up for the exercise.
Ozawa-san, our friend and confidant	Ponsuke, Gokan's chicken-dog	View from Gokan's house at dusk
The next day we would take Gokan-san's faithful SUV to another peak, Akagiyama to while away a pleasant hour or so at the Shakunage onsen. I call it "shark nuggets"...it is just easier to remember. Our mutual friend Ozawa-san joined us and we had a great time, even stopping to enjoy some Japanese macha (green tea) flavored ice cream, nature's most perfect food.
The mountains of Gunma	Gokan and John begin the ascent	Azumayama "good ol' boys"
We arrived back in Kiryu in time for the English club meeting which featured stirring commentary from Lady Arwen and other luminaries such as Momose-sensei (the famous eye-doctor) and Kaneko-san, the famous scion of a local businessman now assigned to oblivion, at least for me. Most of the world's problems were reviewed and resolved in that single meeting! But was CNN there? NO!!
Gokan prepares sneak attack of infamy	Shakunage Onsen	View from the top of Azumayama
After the meeting, we relaxed at Denny's restaurant with more ice cream (nature's most perfect food) and then retired to Gokan's estate perched on the side of Gokanyama, named after my faithful sherpa and guide. At 4:30am the whole mountain shook with a ferocious earthquake that roughly roused me from my slumber. I tried sorting out my options, but before any conclusion was reached, the earth returned to normal, the house remained on the side of the mountain, and I went back to sleep. The next morning the whole world was white with snow, which was coming down in large white billows. It was beautiful...Gokan's house has a fabulous vista.
John at 61	Gokan-san at 55 (Note:Oklahoma Cap)	Azumayama at dusk
Gokan's wife displayed the hospitality for which Japan is well-known. She is a great cook and speaks pretty good English. Her home is immaculate and beautifully decorated. But you have to take off your shoes, because that is Japanese custom. It explains why the Japanese are always running and have no extra time. they spend it putting on and taking off their shoes!
Mr. and Mrs. Gokan	One narrow escape after another	One of the house in Gokan's neighborhood
After returning the bicycle to the post office, I jumped the Limited Express back to Tokyo and onward to Fujisawa in time to teach our Wednesday night class. Little did the students realize that underneath the shy and reserved demeanor of John, their beloved bible teacher, beats the heart of one who had met and bested the magnificent and mysterious mountain known as Azumayama.
Some of the Tuesday gang of rascals	One of several bike parking lots at our station	Happy to be back home in Fujisawa
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